Phu The cake: An eternal symbol of love of husbands and wives (2024)
In my experience, there are ways to increase one’s enjoyment of a dish beyond just tasting it, and Phu The is no exception. Understanding the meaning and story behind a delicious specialty can actually help improve the taste by stimulating the imagination.
There are various tales about the cake. A legend says King Ly Anh Tong (1136-1175) was leading his army on the battlefield amidst a brutal war, he received a box holding a nearly decorated cake made by the Queen. The gift touched the king’s heart, so he named it Phu The (husband and wife) to honour the love of every married Vietnamese couple.
In another version, it was said that a village festival held in the Do Temple in Bac Ninh province welcomed a visit from King Ly Thanh Tong and his wife. The local people presented a special gift to honour the presence of the King and the Queen. Delighted by the tasty flavour, the King inquired about the chef behind the masterful cake. After knowing it was made by a young married couple, he gave the cake its name to immortalise their creation.
Whatever version is true, it comes down to a noble meaning – the wholehearted love of husband and wife stretching throughout Vietnamese history. Its values are still shining, with two cakes going together as a pair in every traditional wedding to symbolise the attachment of a married couple.
In Dinh Bang ward, Bac Ninh province, where the very first Phu The cakes were created hundreds of years ago, every family was busily preparing ingredients to produce their best cakes to meet their long lists of orders.
Although each family’s cake has its own recipe and unique flavour, we could recognise many familiar ingredients such as sticky rice flour, green beans, dried papayas, coconuts and banana leaves.
Phu The cakes are a specialty at weddings in Vietnam. (Photo: VNA)
The family of Nguyen Ky Kiem has been making the dish for generations. Kiem’s wife and dozens of other family members are extremely busy during this time of the year producing and serving some of the best cakes in the area.
“The production of these cakes is an achievement that requires hard work and dedication from the whole family, so we see the cake as a family symbol, not only just a means of living,” said Kiem. “Because of the very long order list from customers, everyone has to be involved. Each member has a specific duty from washing the banana leaves to kneading flour, selecting the finest pieces of bean or cutting the coconuts and papayas. We work like a machine; each of us is a link in the chain, each one is equally important and has to work perfectly with the others.”
Kiem said the uniqueness of Dinh Bang cakes lies in the blend between the outer layer and the core of the cake. In order to create such a delicious cake, they use a special kind of sticky rice of the north.
After a week, the shape is finally formed. The final step is to mix in white sugar, papaya and other additives like banana oil, vanilla and fruit juice. The additives are kneaded meticulously into the mixture in certain proportions. The core is made of green beans, cooked and blended with white sugar and coconut milk. Finally, the delicious cakes are ready to serve.
The secret of the perfect amber layer lies in the gardenia fruit. After being dried and soaked with rice, it will fade and change the colour of the rice. That’s how the cakes from Bac Ninh get the unique flavour that makes them among the best in Vietnam.
Legend has it that during the Ly Dynasty, when King Ly Anh Tong went to battle, the queen made a cake and sent them to the king. It touched the king's heart, so he named it Phu the cake (husband and wife cake) to honor the love of married couples.
Therefore, avoid wearing something similar to what the bride will wear and try not to choose white, red, and pastel colors. Purple florals represent sadness, and white florals represent funerals and death, so they are a big no for wedding guests.
During the reception, the bride and groom "chào bàn", or table greeting, which is the customary process of going from table to table to personally thank guests for their well wishes and to collect cards and gifts. Usually, each table selects a representative to give a quick congratulatory toast to the bride and groom.
Turns out, wearing red to a wedding means to some that “you've slept with the groom.” “Old Wives' Tale, but yeah,” Mitchell explained. However, both wedding planners agreed on a more modern reason for not wearing red: It could be seen as a way to grab the attention away from the bride.
Neutral shades are timeless options that won't detract from the wedding's formal atmosphere. For a more colorful look, consider wearing shades of blue, lavender, or pink to show that you're in the celebratory spirit. If the wedding is in a tropical destination, opt for colors like yellow, orange, and green.
This alleviates financial stress on the newlywed couple, who typically pay for the wedding themselves, and allows for a more lively atmosphere with higher attendance." Chan agrees, explaining that Vietnamese couples don't have wedding registries and "all gifts are monetary gifts."
This goes double for visiting temples and pagodas - keep your arms and legs covered, and hide as much bare skin as you can. It's extremely rude to go to such places while insufficiently dressed. Colorful and ostentatious dressing is also frowned upon, although more so in the provinces than in big cities.
Handkerchiefs are never given, for they symbolize an unhappy farewell. Black wrapping paper, yellow flowers, and chrysanthemums are all associated with death and thus avoided as gifts. Men give flowers only to women, and never to other men, for presenting flowers is thought to be a chivalrous gesture.
For Đám Hỏi, the Vietnamese engagement ceremony, brides will traditionally wear a red áo dài, representing happiness, luck, and prosperity. More modern brides have worn colors such as green, white, or pink. After marriage, Vietnamese women graduate to wearing richer, more vibrant colored áo dài.
Avoid wearing red or black clothes when visiting a funeral or a mourning house. These are considered unlucky colors in Vietnamese culture. White, gray, or blue are more appropriate. Avoid wearing military-style clothing or accessories, such as camouflage, khaki, or dog tags.
If you are invited to a Vietnamese wedding, it is best to wear formal attire, such as a suit or dress. For men, suits and ties are appropriate, while women can wear a co*cktail dress or a modern ao dai. Avoid wearing black or white as they are traditionally associated with funerals and mourning in Vietnamese culture.
One of the most common Vietnamese wedding traditions is including a lot of red and gold. It's because these colors are considered lucky. Typically the bride will wear red or yellow and a lot of the decor will be in these colors as well. Bright florals are also popular.
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