Few people are formally taught how to file their own nails. In fact, you probably picked up your technique by watching other people do it. But, there is a method to the fingernail-filing madness. And, it's a skill you should perfect if, like many of us, you are looking for ways to up your home-mani game. We asked top nail artists Sarah Giugliano, Mabelyn Martin, and Cassandra Banel for their best tips and tricks. And while the result will probably never compete with an in-salon job, with their advice for how to file nails in mind, we'd like to think we'll come pretty close.
Meet the Expert
- Sarah Giugliano is a Smith & Cult beauty ambassador and celebrity nail artist whose clients include Beyonce.
- Mabelyn Martin is the creative director of the New York City-based nail studio Paintbox.
- Cassandre Banel is a Seattle-based nail artist and ManiMe partner.
First, Choose a Nail Shape
As with so many things (like haircuts, parts, hair color, makeup methods), embracing what nature gifted you with might be the best call when selecting your nail shape, especially for beginner at-home nail techs. Of course, we always support pursuing whatever look and trend you feel like wearing, however, for newbies, it might be easiest to heed your natural nail shape as you learn to file your nails.
"I think shapes are a very personal choice, but to a certain degree, they can also depend on the natural shape of your nail bed," says Giugliano. Martin has a great shortcut: "Following the shape of where your nail bed ends and free edge begins is a great guide. If it goes straight across, the soft square is best. If it goes deeper into the side walls you should go more round or oval." In case you need more ideas for which nail shape to go with, we've got a few:
- Square
- Coffin (aka ballerina)
- Almond
- Pointy
Tools
- Glass File
- Finer Grit Buffer
- Emery Board File
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How to File Your Nails
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Start at the Corner and Work Your Way to the Middle
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Haphazardly filing back and forth sans any kind of rhyme or reason might work for all intents and purposes, but if you want to file your nails like a pro, there's a little strategy involved. "When filing your nails, always start from the outside corner going into the middle of the nail," Giugliano explains. "Try imagining your nail in two sections. I like to file the left side first and then the right to complete the shape."
Another pro tip? Mind your hand placement. "When filing," Giugliano explains, "you always want to hold your hand as if someone else is shaping [your nails]." In other words, you want the tips facing inward and toward you versus outward and away from you.
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Define the Edges
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Have you ever noticed that when you're at the salon, the manicurist likely spends more time filing and perfecting the shape than applying the nail color itself? Well, according to all manicurists here, there's a sound reason for this—if you don't take your time, the ultimate result may look a bit haggard or slapdash. Some words of filing wisdom: Practice makes perfect, and always take your time when filing so you don't damage your nails. "Starting off (and keeping it) slow is best to prevent over-filing," says Martin. "Stop, put your fingers up to make sure tips are even as you'd like, and keep going." Slow and steady wins the race, folks.
And be sure to maintain your corner-to-middle technique. "A common mistake people make is filing back and forth," Giugliano cautions. "You never want to file in a 'saw-like' motion. When you only file in one direction, it protects the nail from splitting and tearing."
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Buff to Smooth
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Remember how we suggested a fine grit buffer above? That will come into play here. "Use a fine grit (280 or 500 grit) buffer file to smooth the edges and fix small uneven or rough areas," says Banel.
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The Final Look
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As it turns out, you don't need to be a pro to file your nails like one. As long as you come equipped with the right tools and know-how—and avoid committing filing faux pas—you'll be one step closer to gorgeous, professionally-shaped nails.
